Detailing the surface of AFV´s

Nowadays in military modelling much attention is paid in painting and weathering a kit. It is my opinion that these effects and the effect of realism can be "doubled" by taking care on the base, the surface of the kit. Even the surface of soft armoured AFV's is slightly textured and sometimes uneven and not smooth like the surface of the respective kit will make us believe. The same is valid for weld seams.

The glue method

To represent this texture I am using Italeri liquid glue and old brushes. I am wetting the relevant area of the kit with the glue and after a few seconds I start brushing around and texturing the surface. I am stroking symmetrical and asymmetrical until I get the desired result. It is important to be aware of the consistence of the plastic. Some are more resistant than others and keeping that in mind one should calculate the amount of glue added onto it.

I always do some tests on the inside or bottom of the lower hull before I start off. Please do not loose your nerves when the plastic is changing it's colour and the kit will get shiny, it is normal! It is important that this effect is not overdone, or surface details are damaged by the glue. It is recommended to always check out pictures, or if possible refer to the real vehicle and examine it personally to get a feeling how the texture looks like. For beginners a medium or heavy Russian tank from WWII is recommended, as the surface of these tanks was always textured quite heavy. Nevertheless, if a surface got to heavy, it can be corrected by sanding with fine sandpaper.

Previously painted Modells?

For several reasons I sometimes get a hold of already painted AFV’s. If they are painted with acrylics to go ahead with the glue and brush technique as the paint dissolves and mingles with the glue.

This technique is not recommended for enamel or acrylic-enamel as the paint does not mingle with the glue. After texturing you can add some scratches and dents to the still soft plastic to improve the "realism" effect. I am using a blade or tweezers for this effect. Heavier damages are performed with a soldering iron.

When working with resin, white metal or "mixed configurations" I am using Italeri glue thinned with Squadron White putty or Tamiya putty to resemble the texture. I had so far no accident that this texture is detaching from such a surface. You can also use this Putty/Glue method for resembling "heavier" texturing. You can use this layer also, but very carefully on enamel painted AFV’s which need to be "restored".

Other methods

Some guys are using Acetone and Tamiya Putty for texturing. To me this has several disadvantages. The Italeri/Squadron/Tamiya Putty method is at least offending nose, throat and eyes, but Acetone/Tamiya Putty is a real "killer'. Also Acetone is evaporating very quickly and you have to work fast to avoid a putty caked surface.

It is my impression that paint fixes easier to such a textured surface and also the filter settling comes along smoother. Drybrushing is easier as the paint "is caught" at the "raised" texture. So after all you get a very delicate looking model in the end.

There is another method of texturing by using a drill with a dental burr. One must be very careful using this method. If you do not work concentrated you can easily drill an unintended hole or damage other parts of the kit or create a dent which doe not look realistic.

You also must take care to work asymmetrical to avoid a too uniform pattern. Burring is creating dust and especially when working with resin the fun ends and a mask is vital.

As I painted my kits with brush for 20 years I can say that I am quite used to handle a brush and therefore prefer the glue method for texturing. Just take care that the brush does not loose hair which then is stucked in the texture.